A Deeper Introduction to Szechwan Cuisine
The cuisine of the western region of China is known for its spiciness, but many western palates overlook the complex interplay of savory, sour, pungent, and sweet flavors that underlie the fiery heat of Szechwan pepper and other spices that give Szechwan cuisine its characteristic burn.
China is a big nation with practically every possible climate represented, yet for decades, most of the world was primarily familiar with Cantonese food and thought of it as “Chinese cuisine.” The astounding variety of foods, spices, and climates has led to many different styles of Chinese cuisine. Szechwan cuisine, which originated in a steamy, subtropical climate, includes smoked, pickled, and spiced foods, as well as foods that are heavily seasoned for preservation and flavor.
Although the Szechwan pepper, a fruit grown in Chongging Province, has long been utilized in Szechwan cuisine, most agree that Christopher Columbus brought the chili back from his travels. Szechwan cuisine employs an interplay of tastes to produce the full impression of a dish, in addition to the sensations that sear the mouth. When correctly prepared, hot and sour soup, for example, is neither predominantly spicy nor exclusively sour. Its first impression is the strong, rich scent of roasted beef and sour lemon, prepared with sorrel, lemongrass, tofu, and other spices. The soup is first salty, albeit not particularly pungent, and this scent is belied at first contact on the tongue. The subtle blend of flavors melds and changes in the mouth to a mild acidity, with sorrel and lemongrass making their presence felt. As soon as the soup is ingested, the fire kicks in, and the chili oil reaches the taste buds. This isn’t rare in Szechwan food. When you take your first mouthful of Kung Pao chicken, you are seldom moved to tears. But it isn’t until you chew and swallow and eat another bite that the dish’s genuine spiciness becomes apparent.The tastes of Double Cooked Spicy Pork mingle softly in the background at first, until the powerful heat of the chile oil in which the pork is cooked suddenly explodes up in your tongue.
However, there is more to Szechwan food than fire. Smoked meat is widely used, and smoking often involves unusual materials and flavors. Szechwan tea-smoked duck is a delicacy that mixes citrus, ginger, and garlic tastes with lengthy, slow cooking over an oolong and green tea-infused fire. The result is succulent meat that melts in your mouth and leaves a hint of ginger and orange.
One tradition of Szechwan cuisine that is gaining popularity in the Western world is the Szechwan Hot Pot. A hot pot, like a ‘fondue,’ is more of an experience than a meal. Guests are served chunks and slices of raw meat, fish, and vegetables at a table with a ‘hot pot,’ which is a pot of chili oil heated over a flame. Each guest chooses a dish and cooks it in the pot until it is done. Guests who prefer a more bland meal or cannot stomach the spiciness of meals cooked with chili oil are frequently served a pot of basic broth by their hosts.
Spicy, rich and flavorful, Szechwan cuisine is a cuisine based on intense heat, intense acidity and intense pleasure.